Is your Z Grill auger motor not working? Chances are, there is a pellet jam which is usually caused by excessive moisture in pellets.
If the auger is still not working after cleaning out the jammed pellets, chances are you have a bricked auger motor. Please get in touch with us through our Contact page.
Once you have your new auger motor, you can replace it yourself by following this guide. This whole process will take 15-20 minutes and will require some basic tools as listed below.
For Z Grill Models: ZPG-700E & ZPG-7002B
Time & Difficulty
- Medium Difficulty
Spare Parts (provided by Z Grills)
- Auger Motor
- Cable ties
- Vacuum cleaner
- Philips head screwdriver
- Scissors or wire snips
- Pliers or small socket set
- 7/64″ or 2.5mm Allen key
1. Unplug the power
Before doing any maintenance or cleaning, always unplug the power to the grill.
2. Empty the hopper
Scoop as many pellets out as you can using a plastic scoop or cup. Vacuum out the remaining pellets so you can see the Auger.
If your vacuum nozzle can’t fit through the hopper guard/grate you can remove it using a screwdriver.
The 4 screws are located just under the side of the guard.
Take care not to drop the screws down into the Auger.
3. Remove base cover
Remove the 6 screws to release the base cover.
There is a plastic tension ring around the power cable so wiggle the cover down as you push the cable through.
Get enough slack cable for the base cover to sit on the ground.
4. Release the controller
Remove the two screws in the front of the controller and push it through the front hole (hold on angle to fit through). Allow the controller to gently hang down.
5. Remove hopper box
Remove the 4 screws.
Support the hopper box so it doesn’t fall.
Lift off the hopper and place off to the side out of the way.
You now have full access to the Controller, Auger and Ignition Rod cables.
6. Unplug the auger motor
Cut the plastic ties that are securing the cables together.
Unplug the Auger Motor (MOT) with the red wires.
Undo the red knot and pull the red cable and plug through the hole in the metal plate.
7. Check if auger is moving freely
Wobble the motor back and forth and rotate to ensure the Auger (long metal spiral) is moving freely. If it is moving freely, continue on to Step 8.
If the Auger is stuck in place then it may be jammed/clogged with moist pellets. This will also be clear as the pellets will not have easily vacuumed out.
To clear out the pellets remove the motor and drum screw as outlined in the next step then break apart the pellets with a screwdriver and work the auger slowly out. You may need to use a pair of pliers or small monkey wrench on the shaft to rotate it if very stuck.
8. Remove auger shaft bolt
With a pair of pliers or socket and Allen key (7/64″ or 2.5mm) undo and remove the shaft bolt.
If you don’t have a suitable sized Allen key, using a pair of pliers on the Allen key head should also work.
If the orientation of the shaft does not let you access the ends of the shaft bolt, remove the screw on the side of the metal drum to allow the whole Auger to slide out.
Slide the Auger out enough to get a suitable orientation to remove the shaft bolt. You can safely slide the Auger right out if you want.
9. Remove and replace motor
Remove the motor and then reverse the process to attach the new one.
Run the cable back through the hole in the metal plate and tie a knot so the cable cannot put through.
Ensure there is enough slack in the cable so the motor can move freely.
Plug the cable back in.
10. Clean up cables
Bundle the cables together close to the wall of the grill and secure them with cable ties. If they are hanging too far forward they can easily contact the auger fan once the controller is back in the normal position.
Ensure there is enough cable length to the controller so it can fit back into place.
11. Put hopper back
Note the correct position for the temperature cable as shown in the photo. Do not run the cable on the outside of the U shaped mounting plate.
Lift the hopper back into position and do up the 4 screws.
Remember to use a low torque setting if using an electric screwdriver.
12. Put controller back
Pass the controller back up through the hole in the hopper box.
Ensure the two thin white cables (temperature probe) are still tight in the blue or green terminal block.
Do up the two screws to secure the controller in place.
Gently pull up all the slack in the temperature sensor cable so no loose cable is in the hopper box.
Bundle the cable up and tuck down between the hopper and grill.
Using your phone’s front facing camera or a mirror, look at the underside of the hopper box to check to see if any cables are close to the auger fan.
If they are too close go back to step 10, using cable ties to pull them further away.
The image shows normal distance between the controller wires and the fan.
If you hear a rapid clicking/buzzing sound during startup after repairs cables contacting the fan will be the reason.
13. Test operation
Plug the power cable in and turn the controller power switch ON.
Turn the controller dial to Smoke.
Listen for any ticking noise that would indicate cables are contacting the auger fan. If this occurs, use your phone or mirror to look underneath to see if the cables are contacting the auger motor fan.
14. Check auger motor operation
If you turn to Smoke the auger will only run for a couple of seconds then stop for 20-30 seconds (normal operation). To more clearly see the auger rotating, turn the controller dial back and forth between Shut Down Cycle and Smoke to force the auger motor to run continually.
Look down inside the hopper to see if the auger is slow turning. If it is, congrats, you are a Z Grills repair guru!
Turn the grill back to Shut Down Cycle and turn the power off. Unplug the grill from power supply.
15. Replace bottom cover
Life the bottom cover up, pulling the power cable through the plastic tension ring to ensure there is not too much slack up inside the box.
Replace the screws.
Plug the grill back in to power supply and run through the Initial Startup Procedure and get back to cooking.