COVID-19 update: Z Grills in stock and shipping Australia wide.

This is a step by step guide on how to replace your Z Grills ignition rod and should take around 20 minutes to complete. 

Time & Difficulty

  • 15-20min
  • Medium Difficulty

Spare Parts (provided by Z Grills)

  • Ignition Rod
  • Cable ties
  • Spare fuse

Tools Required

  • Vacuum cleaner
  • Philips head screwdriver
  • Scissors or wire snips
  • Pliers or small socket set

1. Unplug the power

Before doing any maintenance or cleaning, always unplug the power to the grill.

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 1 Unplug Power

2. Empty the hopper

Scoop as many pellets out as you can using a plastic scoop or cup.  Vacuum out the remaining pellets so you can see the Auger.  

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 2 Empty Hopper

If your vacuum nozzle can’t fit through the hopper guard/grate you can remove it using a screwdriver.  

The 4 screws are located just under the side of the guard.  

Take care not to drop the screws down into the Auger.

3. Remove base cover

Remove the 6 screws to release the base cover.

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 3 Remove Base Cover Screws

There is a plastic tension ring around the power cable so wiggle the cover down as you push the cable through.  

Get enough slack cable for the base cover to sit on the ground. 

4. Remove controller

Remove the two screws in the front of the controller and push it inside the hopper box, allowing it to hang down.

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 6 Controller Hanging

5. Remove hopper box

Remove the 4 screws. 

Support the hopper box so it doesn’t fall. 

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 6 Remove Hopper Screws

Lift off the hopper and place off to the side out of the way.

You now have full access to the Controller, Auger and Ignition Rod cables.

6. Check controller fuse

If the Ignition Rod has failed the fuse in the controller may have blown.  A spare fuse is strapped to the top of the existing green fuse box.  

Cut the white cable tie and pull off the lid of the green box to check the installed fuse.   

If fuse is blown, replace with the supplied spare one. 

 

Spare fuse

7. Unplug ignition rod

Cut the plastic cable ties that are securing the cables together. 

Unplug the Ignition Rod (purple & white wires, labelled “HOT”).  

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 8 Unplug Ignition Rod Cable

8. Remove fire-pot

The 4 screws on top of the fire-pot can be removed with a small socket or pair of wide pliers. 

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 9a Remove Fire-pot Screws

Remove the 4 screws on the top of the fire-pot.

With either your hand or by tapping gently with pliers, move the fire-pot to the right to release from its position. 

 

Lift the fire-pot out by rotating it slightly to the side and lifting out.

9. Replace ignition rod

Loosen the screw enough to slide the Ignition Rod out.

Ignition Rod Replacement - Remove Ignition Rod

Pull out the old Ignition Rod from the plug end near the controller.

Push through the new Ignition Rod and feed through to the Fire-pot.

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 9c Insert New Ignition Rod

10. Install new ignition rod

Feed the new Ignition Rod through into the Fire-pot until 12-15mm is protruding out.  

Tighten the screw to secure the position.

Z Grills ignition Rod length in Firepot

Put the Fire-pot back in the same way you removed it, by turning to the side slightly as you drop it down.

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 10c Remove Fire-pot

Tap the Fire-pot back into the correct position with a screwdriver or pliers.

You may need to lift the wood pellet feed tube slightly to help it align with the hole in the Fire-pot.

Ignition Rod Replacement - Step 10c Replace Fire-pot

Do up the 4 screws.

Reconnect the Ignition Rod plug to the controller plug.

Ingnition Rod Plug in Cable

11. Clean up cables

Gently pull the Ignition Rod cable tight so there is no slack inside the grill box.

Ignition Rod Replacement - Pull cable tight

Bundle the cables together close to the wall of the grill and secure them with cable ties.  If they are hanging too far forward they can easily contact the auger fan once the controller is back in the normal position.

12 . Put hopper back

Note the correct position for the temperature cable as shown in the photo.  Do not run the cable on the outside of the U shaped mounting plate. 

Correct temp cable position

Lift the hopper back into position and do up the 4 screws.

13. Put controller back

Pass the controller back up through the hole in the hopper box.

Ignition Rod Replacement - Replace Controller

Ensure the two thin white cables (temperature probe) are still tight in the blue or green terminal block. 

Do up the two screws to secure the controller in place. 

Remember not to use high torque setting on your screwdriver or you will strip the threads.

Gently pull up all the slack in the temperature sensor cable so no loose cable is in the hopper box.  

Bundle the cable up and tuck down between the hopper and grill. 

Using your phone’s front facing camera or a mirror, look at the underside of the hopper box to check to see if any cables are close to the auger fan. 

If they are too close go back to step 11, using cable ties to pull them further away. 

The image shows normal distance between the controller wires and the fan.  

If you hear a rapid clicking/buzzing sound during startup after repairs cables contacting the fan will be the reason. 

Fan and Cables

14. Replace bottom cover

Life the bottom cover up, pulling the power cable through the plastic tension ring to ensure there is not too much slack up inside the box. 

Replace the screws. 

15. Test operation

Plug the power cable in and turn the controller power switch ON.  

Turn Z Grills power switch ON

Turn the controller dial to SMOKE. 

You should hear the sound of the fan. 

Listen for any ticking noise that would indicate cables are contacting the auger fan.  If this occurs, go back to step 11. 

Set Z Grills controller to SMOKE setting

Monitor the Ignition Rod which should get dull red in 4-5 minutes and the pellets dropping into the fire-pot should start to smoulder and come to flame.

If the auger feed tube is empty of pellets, test the ignition rod by touching with a twisted piece of tissue paper, which should start to burn in a few seconds.

Awesome work, you fixed it.

Back to cooking again!

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