Ignition rod replacement Guide
This is a step by step guide on how to replace your Z Grills ignition rod and should take around 20 minutes to complete.
Time & Difficulty
- Medium Difficulty
Spare Parts (provided by Z Grills)
- Ignition Rod
- Cable ties
- Spare fuse
- Vacuum cleaner
- Philips head screwdriver
- Scissors or wire snips
- Pliers or small socket set
1. Unplug the power
Before doing any maintenance or cleaning, always unplug the power to the grill.
2. Empty the hopper
Scoop as many pellets out as you can using a plastic scoop or cup. Vacuum out the remaining pellets so you can see the Auger.
If your vacuum nozzle can’t fit through the hopper guard/grate you can remove it using a screwdriver.
The 4 screws are located just under the side of the guard.
Take care not to drop the screws down into the Auger.
3. Remove base cover
Remove the 6 screws to release the base cover.
There is a plastic tension ring around the power cable so wiggle the cover down as you push the cable through.
Get enough slack cable for the base cover to sit on the ground.
4. Remove controller
Remove the two screws in the front of the controller and push it inside the hopper box, allowing it to hang down.
5. Remove hopper box
Remove the 4 screws.
Support the hopper box so it doesn’t fall.
Lift off the hopper and place off to the side out of the way.
You now have full access to the Controller, Auger and Ignition Rod cables.
6. Check controller fuse
If the Ignition Rod has failed the fuse in the controller may have blown. A spare fuse is strapped to the top of the existing green fuse box.
Cut the white cable tie and pull off the lid of the green box to check the installed fuse.
If fuse is blown, replace with the supplied spare one.
7. Unplug ignition rod
Cut the plastic cable ties that are securing the cables together.
Unplug the Ignition Rod (purple & white wires, labelled “HOT”).
8. Remove fire-pot
The 4 screws on top of the fire-pot can be removed with a small socket or pair of wide pliers.
Remove the 4 screws on the top of the fire-pot.
With either your hand or by tapping gently with pliers, move the fire-pot to the right to release from its position.
Lift the fire-pot out by rotating it slightly to the side and lifting out.
9. Replace ignition rod
Loosen the screw enough to slide the Ignition Rod out.
Pull out the old Ignition Rod from the plug end near the controller.
Push through the new Ignition Rod and feed through to the Fire-pot.
10. Install new ignition rod
Feed the new Ignition Rod through into the Fire-pot until 5-7mm is protruding out.
Tighten the screw to secure the position.
Put the Fire-pot back in the same way you removed it, by turning to the side slightly as you drop it down.
Tap the Fire-pot back into the correct position with a screwdriver or pliers.
You may need to lift the wood pellet feed tube slightly to help it align with the hole in the Fire-pot.
Do up the 4 screws.
Reconnect the Ignition Rod plug to the controller plug.
11. Clean up cables
Gently pull the Ignition Rod cable tight so there is no slack inside the grill box.
Bundle the cables together close to the wall of the grill and secure them with cable ties. If they are hanging too far forward they can easily contact the auger fan once the controller is back in the normal position.
12 . Put hopper back
Note the correct position for the temperature cable as shown in the photo. Do not run the cable on the outside of the U shaped mounting plate.
Lift the hopper back into position and do up the 4 screws.
13. Put controller back
Pass the controller back up through the hole in the hopper box.
Ensure the two thin white cables (temperature probe) are still tight in the blue or green terminal block.
Do up the two screws to secure the controller in place.
Remember not to use high torque setting on your screwdriver or you will strip the threads.
Gently pull up all the slack in the temperature sensor cable so no loose cable is in the hopper box.
Bundle the cable up and tuck down between the hopper and grill.
Using your phone’s front facing camera or a mirror, look at the underside of the hopper box to check to see if any cables are close to the auger fan.
If they are too close go back to step 11, using cable ties to pull them further away.
The image shows normal distance between the controller wires and the fan.
If you hear a rapid clicking/buzzing sound during startup after repairs cables contacting the fan will be the reason.
14. Replace bottom cover
Life the bottom cover up, pulling the power cable through the plastic tension ring to ensure there is not too much slack up inside the box.
Replace the screws.
15. Test operation
Plug the power cable in and turn the controller power switch ON.
Turn the controller dial to SMOKE.
You should hear the sound of the fan.
Listen for any ticking noise that would indicate cables are contacting the auger fan. If this occurs, go back to step 11.
Monitor the Ignition Rod which should get dull red in 4-5 minutes and the pellets dropping into the fire-pot should start to smoulder and come to flame.
You can add pellets into the hopper and begin normal operation.